Photographs by Ted Cavanaugh
IT DOESN’T MATTER if you’re running errands, jogging, or engaging in a rousing game of pickleball—wearing sneakers that don’t fit right can ruin your day. Yet so many of us need to step up our game. A meta-analysis of studies published in the Journal of Foot and Ankle Research found that as many as 72% of people worldwide wear ill-fitting shoes, most of them too narrow or too small. That tracks with what foot docs see every day. “Most people do not prioritize proper fit when choosing shoes,” says Miguel Cunha, a doctor of podiatric medicine and the founder of Gotham Footcare in New York City. This goes for pumps and booties, yes, but also sneakers.
One issue is inconsistency of sizes. Shopping for kicks is a lot like buying jeans. “Just because you’re a size 8 in one brand of shoe doesn’t necessarily mean you’re a size 8 across all of them,” says Hylton B. Menz, PhD, a professor of podiatry at La Trobe University in Australia and coauthor of the previously mentioned meta-analysis. What’s more, many manufacturers continually update shoe designs, so if you’ve been wearing the same model for years, the latest one might not fit.
And fit matters a lot. “Your feet are the gateway to the rest of your body,” Cunha says. When shoe pain prevents you from walking as you normally would, you put yourself at risk of plantar fasciitis (painful inflammation of the ligament that runs along the bottom of the foot), early-onset arthritis, and back issues. Your footwear needs to feel as good as it looks—if not better. So take a lap through these tips before your next shopping adventure.
Fit matters a lot. When shoe pain prevents you from walking normally, you risk plantar fasciitis, early onset arthritis, and back issues
Clicking “Add to cart” on a new pair of sneakers is so tempting when there’s a huge sale and free two-day shipping. But it pays in the long run to try pairs on—and to shop at a retailer that specializes in what you’re looking for, like running or tennis shoes. These stores should have staff who are trained in the basics of proper fit. Meaning: When an associate asks if you need help, accept it. “Specialists can measure your feet and help you select the appropriate size and style based on your unique requirements and foot shape,” Cunha explains. An expert can also recommend styles that work well if you have, say, bunions, which require a lot of arch support and a wide toe box.
Buying shoes at a general sporting-goods store is fine too. Even if you can’t get the same level of personal attention, it’s still best to look around, have your feet measured, try the shoes on, and do your own litmus test. After all, no expert can tell you how your feet really feel.
Have you ever bought a pair of seemingly comfy sneakers only to discover that they’re too small when you lace up the next afternoon for their first official wear? “Your feet swell later in the day due to the cumulative effects of gravity, causing fluid retention to build up in your feet and ankles,” Cunha says. So you probably tried on those shoes in the morning or after prolonged sitting. Cunha and other experts suggest shopping after you’ve been on your feet for a few hours, when they’ll be at their most swollen. “If shoes feel comfortable at the end of the day, most likely they’ll feel comfortable throughout the day.” If they don’t, just walk away.
Your thumb works as a handy ruler to measure the space between your big toe and the tip of the shoe. “Most guidelines say the shoe should be 10 to 20 millimeters longer than the foot, which is roughly the average width of an adult’s thumb,” Menz says.
Additionally, make sure shoes aren’t too tight around the sides, which limits your mobility and can lead to injury, says Kristi Barker, a physical therapist in Saskatchewan, Canada. “A great way to check is to place your foot over the top of the shoe and compare the sizes. You should be able to see the entire perimeter of the shoe around your foot,” she says. One last fit check: The back of the shoes should comfortably grip your heel with every step you take.
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Don’t just buy the first pair you like. Testing out at least three styles gives you the best chance at finding your Cinderella fit, Cunha says. He further recommends wearing two different models at the same time, one on each foot. That way you can compare comfort in real time, versus by memory. Mix up pairs, trying on all sorts of combos. Remember to test the complete winning pair before heading for the register, Cunha adds. You obviously want to confirm that the shoes fit well on both feet.
If shoes pinch, rub, or chafe in the store, they likely won’t get better over time. “There shouldn’t be a break-in period,” says A. Holly Johnson, MD, an orthopedic foot and ankle surgeon at the Hospital for Special Surgery in New York City. Sure, some materials, like leather, may stretch, but you can’t assume that’ll make the shoes more comfortable. A few minutes of testing should give you a good sense of how they’ll feel, Johnson says. “You could mimic the activity you’re planning to do, like running, or jumping if you’re going to take something like a HIIT class,” she says. As you move around the store, think about what would happen if you tripped on the sidewalk. Would your ankle feel supported enough to course-correct and prevent you from falling? Would your toes jam against the front of the shoe? (That’s an immediate red flag!
Let’s say you try on a 9, take a stroll around the store, and decide they’re a smidgen too tight. But when you go up to a 91/2, there’s too much wiggle room. Even if you love the shoes, move on to the next option. “There’s a ton of overlap with styles. Shoe companies now have their versions of a rocker bottom shoe, trail shoe, minimalist shoe, etc. So you should be able to find something similar from a different brand that will fit you better,” Johnson says. On the off chance you keep striking out and must choose between slightly big and slightly small, choose the former. “You can use over-the-counter insoles, not only for comfort and arch support but also to help take up some of the excess space,” Cunha says.
“The length and width of an adult’s foot tend to change due to ligamentous laxity,” Cunha says, meaning our ligaments stretch out over time. Feet can also get bigger due to weight gain or to hormonal changes during pregnancy. “If you’ve developed a bunion or arthritis—and those commonly happen between the ages of 40 and 60—you may need a wider shoe,” Johnson adds. Get remeasured so you know where to start when you’re trying on. Then follow all the advice from above, and you know the rest: If the shoe fits, wear it.
PROP STYLING BY MARINA BEVILACQUA