BY JENNA HELWIG
FOOD STYLING BY CHELSEA ZIMMER; PROP STYLING BY CLAIRE SPOLLE
PAIRING WINE AND FOOD can seem oh-so serious, like if you don’t match your meal with the exact right varietal, you’ll not only be doomed to a dreadful dinner but harrumphed out of the restaurant…or your kitchen, where those wine snobs in your head are waiting to judge you. The pressure is enough to make me throw up my hands and open yet another bottle of Sancerre. But pairing is a thing for a reason, says sommelier Vanessa Price, who’s a managing partner at Mavericks Montauk, a beautiful, buzzy restaurant in Montauk, New York. “The wine you’re drinking and the food you’re eating may be delicious on their own. When they work well together, though, you get a crescendo of yumminess. That goes for a fancy restaurant meal or a frozen dinner.” Price talked me through her pairing philosophy and even gave me a cheat sheet for some of my favorite foods.
You’ve surely heard that white wine goes with fish and red wine goes with meat. That’s only half the story, Price says. “First of all, are we talking a delicate flounder or a meaty tuna? With a white fish, I would choose a lighter white so the wine doesn’t overwhelm the food.” With heartier seafood, you have more options. Salmon with Pinot Noir is a new classic pairing—both are sort of medium-bodied.
As for meat, you want a wine with more weight and volume, because the reverse of the fish rule applies: The food should not overwhelm the wine. But that doesn’t necessarily mean a red. “Whites get oomph when they’re aged in an oak barrel. Think most California Chardonnays or Meursault from France.” These wines feel heavier and more buttery.
Pinpoint your meal’s dominant flavor: acidic, sweet, bitter, savory, or spicy. The hardest flavor to pair is bitter, Price says. “That includes anything super green, like asparagus and artichokes, or even dark chocolate.” But you can work around that by considering what else is going on in the meal. Is the asparagus drizzled with a rich brown butter sauce or served with cheesy potatoes? “Focus on pairing the other elements on the plate. There will usually be something else to work with,” Price says.
Now that you’ve ID’d the flavors in your food, you can come up with a contrasting pairing that creates balance in the meal, or go matchy-matchy with a wine that mirrors the food. “For example, fried chicken is rich and savory. Champagne, with its crispness and effervescence, cuts through the fat and cleanses your palate for the next bite. That’s a contrasting pairing,” Price explains. A congruent pairing would be that buttery, oaky Chardonnay again. “It will be just as rich as the chicken. Both are fantastic choices.”
Usually, a bunch of wines will work with a meal, and the more you experiment, the more you’ll gain an instinct for which pairings you prefer, Price says. And you know what? You can always ask a sommelier if you’re at a restaurant or a salesperson if you’re at a wine shop you trust. At the end of the day, Price says, “this isn’t some super-serious thing. My best advice is to have fun and learn as you go!”
CREAMY CHEESE, LIKE BRIE
A white Bordeaux, which is a blend of grapes like Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle. It’s crisp but has more texture than a Sauv Blanc.
CHIPS & GUACAMOLE
Cava. The little bubbles will cut through the fattiness of the guac.
KALE CAESAR SALAD
A rosado (rosé) from Spain is an excellent counterbalance to the salad’s saltiness and bitterness.
CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA
Zinfandel’s slight smokiness makes it a good complement.
FRENCH FRIES
Champagne and french fries are the power couple that could rule the world.
VEGGIE BURGER
Try a grassy, herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc, like one from New Zealand.
HONEY-BAKED HAM
Petite Sirah from Paso Robles, California, is a dark, bold red that can stand up to the salty-sweet pork.
SUSHI
Grüner Veltliner’s crispness, acidity, and minerality are strong accompaniments to the umami here.
CHEETOS
Sancerre. The salty, cheesy snacks absolutely require a crisp, high-acid wine like this Sauvignon Blanc from France. It’s a truly ideal pairing.
REAL SIMPLE’s food director and the author of five cookbooks, Jenna is an enthusiastic eater, drinker, and home cook. Her go-to cocktail is a Negroni, and her wine of choice is anything bubbly. Cheers!