I had never been to the WM Phoenix Open’s infamous 16th hole at TPC Scottsdale until a Friday evening in 2019, the setting sun illuminating the purple McDowell Mountains in the distance as the temperature dropped by the minute.
I had, however, been to a sticky dive bar at 6 a.m. with the sun rising – unknowingly, that was the ideal reconnaissance trip for this moment.
We’re used to seeing No. 16 at its best. The stadium stands are packed unlike any other hole in golf and, despite Arizona’s water issue, jeers and beers rain down inside golf’s loudest arena.
But this – this was not that. With about 20 minutes before sunset, the final threesome came to the tee at the 163-yard par-3. The raucous crowd had been transformed into empty cans strewn across the grandstands. What remained were a few hundred mangy coyotes howling endlessly at Matthew Wolff, ignoring the “please be quiet” signs held up for comedic relief. Near the green, a full-grown man in a Big Bird costume has passed out, adhered to his seat by the wreckage of his beverage. Behind him, a gaggle of Instagram influencers are deliberating on selfie options. And behind them, a perpetual line has formed at the porta potties – activities taking place inside of them are varied and conspicuous.
It was right around that time when I found myself amused by a thought.
How long would it take for me to explain this scene to golf’s founding fathers of several centuries ago?
“You know the Roman Colosseum?” I would start, angling for common ground. “This is kind of like that, except we are in the American desert surrounding overseeded turf. This is just one hole of a golf tournament, and it’s probably the worst hole on the course. But one year, they put a beer tent here – you know about beer, of course – and it grew to 17,000 people congregating here for a party.”
After blank stares, I would continue.
“See, they bus all the kids over from Arizona State. People come from all over, wearing matching suits and Halloween costumes. You don’t know what any of those things are? OK, so the tournament is sponsored by a garbage company that has headquarters in Houston. Waste Management’s main competitor is Republic Services, which is only three miles from here. It’s funny, isn’t it? The tee markers are tiny garbage trucks, and the caddies dress like garbage men. On the next hole, there is a gopher in a remote-control boat. I can’t remember why, but it’s all about branding.”
More blank stares.
“Look, I know this is a lot to process. It might not be what you envisioned, but it’s good for the game.”
The sun sets and the coyotes finally retreat. At least until a handful of hours later, when they are hungry at the gates once again.
Sean Fairholm
Top: Fans create a party atmosphere at TPC Scottsdale's 16th hole of the WM Phoenix Open.
TRACY WILCOX, PGA TOUR/GETTY IMAGES