Onboard Review: Hurtigruten’s The Svalbard Express — Exploring the High Arctic

SHIPHurtigruten’s The Svalbard Express—Exploring the High ArcticBy Paloma Villaverde de RicoThe water temperature was 55°F. I dipped my toe in; it felt warmer than I thought it would, but still quite cold. I was in Traena, an Arctic coastal community in Norway, on the shores of the Norwegian Sea and dressed in a one-piece that I would typically wear on a Miami Beach summertime outing. Did I dare submerge myself further? The opportunity to plunge into the Arctic waters, I had told myself, was to be the highlight of my Norway cruise. If I didn’t surrender to this experience, then where was my sense of adventure? This cruise on board Hurtigruten’s Trollfjord ship, which sails to the northernmost reaches of the world, is, even for a seasoned travel writer like me, a once-in-a-lifetime journey, and this would be one of the most epic of all the shore excursions I had ever signed up for. I dashed in—all the senses heightened—and allowed the Arctic waters to engulf me completely. I did a little dance, so proud of myself...then, I swiftly ran out to the awaiting sauna. I repeated this energizing plunge several times, each time sinking in even deeper and staying in the frigid waters a little longer. FJORD It’s not every day that one has the opportunity to dance in the Norwegian Sea, but it’s adventures like this that one can expect while sailing Hurtigruten’s The Svalbard Express – Northbound Voyage from Bergen to Svalbard. Picture your clients raising a glass in celebration as they cross the Arctic Circle, marveling at Beluga whales and walruses, standing in awe of majestic fjords or being spellbound by a 2-man concert in one of the world’s most unique concert halls. Today’s travelers yearn for places that drop them to their knees with their beauty. They want to be far from the crowds, exploring smaller communities and distant places where the sense of true discovery still exists. This itinerary, which we hopped on this past summer during the height of the Midnight Sun season, offers exactly what they’re looking for. ROOMOnboard LifeWhile sitting in on one of the daily lectures, I heard one of the ship’s Coastal Experience team members mention to the passengers that if you stay in your cabin, you’ll miss the whole point of the cruise: Taking in the surrounding natural wonders. Guests took that to heart, and so most of the time you’d find them on the sun deck or in any area of the ship with floor-to-ceiling windows (there are plenty). That said, the cozy staterooms on this newly renovated ship are lovely. I stayed in a 139-150-sq.-ft. Arctic Superior cabin that offered a porthole view to Norway’s stunning coastline as well as ample storage room, a pocket-sized bathroom and a very comfy double bed. The Trollfjord is a premium product offering a select number of suites, although mostly staterooms; three eateries (I’ll get to those in just a bit); the 1893 Bar, located in the 2-story observation deck area and serving inventive craft cocktails; the lovely Espolin Johnson lounge with mesmerizing views of the passing scenery; a library that’s always buzzing with board game activity; a lecture hall where passengers get in-depth information on the various ports and delve into Hurtigruten’s storied history; and a small gift shop carrying souvenirs and unique locally made jewelry. FOOD When it comes to its F&B offerings, the Trollfjord does not disappoint. Obviously, this being Norway, clients can expect lots of seafood and, in fact, the menus are inspired by the ports the ship visits. The main dining room, Flora, with floor-to-ceiling windows for catching all that whale-watching action (there was plenty during our sailing) and open for buffet breakfast and lunch and a la carte dinner, offers a varied menu, whether your clients are carnivores or vegans. The intimate Brasserie Arran, meanwhile, draws inspiration from the indigenous Sami people and it’s here where one can try smoked reindeer, pickled herring or grilled Arctic char. Lastly, Rost is the most exclusive eatery of the three and as such suite guests get first dibs (although other passengers can request reservations for when space allows). Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Rost’s culinary offerings are delightful, but it’s the afternoon tea that is not to be missed with scrumptious finger sandwiches, scones, pastries and, of course, tea. It’s an enchanting way to spend the afternoon—ideal for the At Sea day. A highlight in all restaurants are the creative desserts and yummy cheese platters. That said, some of the most extraordinary moments while on board are when passengers are alerted to the fact that there are whales in the distance and they’re heading our way—this happens often and makes for an exhilarating moment, as you watch the group of whales, whichever breed, eloquently dance with the ocean. It’s humbling. Then there’s sailing into Trollfjord, the ship’s namesake—its narrow entrance and steep mountain sides no match for our female captain who expertly maneuvered the ship along the fjord. We were gripped by the scenery, with its snow-topped mountains, swooping birds, dazzling waterfalls and hypnotizing blue-green waters. RESTAURANTOn Shore—A Feast for the SensesI’d need a tome to capture all the enchanting experiences offered during this 8-day sailing that visits charming coastal towns and heads into the High Arctic. There are various shore excursions to choose from in each port and plenty of time to explore on one’s own. In Andalsnes, a must-see is the red octagonal Grytten Church, built in 1829, but clients shouldn’t miss one of the handful of excursions on offer, such as the Hairpin Bends and Soaring Mountains bus tour. Ascending to dizzying heights, the tour bus takes passengers along a mountain pass with 11 hairpin bends, each more foreboding than the last. No matter, the sight from those heights is spellbinding. A few must-visits in Tromso include the Polar Museum; Polaria, an Arctic Experience Center that’s home to bearded seals; the world’s northernmost brewery; the Sami souvenir shop; and any of the lovely coffee shops. We recommend the Tromso on Foot excursion to take in all of this Arctic capital’s delights. Other treats during our port stops included handling and eating king crab in Honningsvag and then heading to the North Cape, the northernmost point in Europe, to check out the famous globe sculpture. For this fun combo, clients can hop on the North Cape and King Crab Experience. One of the most unique experiences, however, takes place during the Best of Vesteralen Summer-Scenic Bus Tour. During this excursion, passengers head into a giant repurposed oil fish tank lit only by candles to listen to a concert whose music feels otherworldly due to the tank’s exceptional acoustics. CHURCHSvalbard—Another WorldThe last stop on the sailing is Longyearbyen in the Svalbard archipelago, where the truly adventurous are going to want to spend a few days. Here, Hurtigruten offers an array of experiences, including the hotel we checked into, the lovely Funken Lodge, with comfy accommodations and top-notch service. Also on offer is the cruise line’s new hybrid-electric speedboat, Kvitbjorn, which speeds passengers across the majestic Ice Fjord, maneuvering around radiantly blue pieces of floating ice, to see glaciers and walruses up-close. On a day-long trip on the hybrid electric MS Bard catamaran, meanwhile, clients will see ghost towns, abandoned, but eerily intact, centuries-old ships and cabins, a dazzling coastline and playful wildlife. They’ll feel like they’ve reached the end of the earth…just like the explorers who ventured to these parts in centuries past and whose adventures are masterfully told to passengers by the engaging onboard crew members. We also enjoyed a wilderness experience at Hurtigruten’s Camp Barentz, but the most unexpected experience was the elegant 14-course dinner we had at Huset (also a Hurtigruten offering). Every morsel was divine—from the seal to the reindeer—but what I was most impressed with was when I told the sommelier I didn’t drink wine, she substituted the wine for juices (with each course accompanied by a different selection). Hurtigruten and Norway are a match made in heaven, and your clients will be as enthralled as I was by the experience. Contact InformationHurtigruten: hurtigruten.com or agentportal.hurtigruten.com

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