Dramatic lighting emphasized the historic moment when robotic arms spray-painted model Shalom Harlow during No. 13 Finale in 1999.
Photo courtesy of McQueen, photographed by Robert Fairer
Lighting is a fundamental aspect of fashion photography and runway shows, yet its significance is often overlooked. In this column, I explore the historical progression, technological advancements, and contemporary applications of lighting in the fashion industry. Let’s take a look at how lighting influences design presentation, sustainability practices, and audience engagement, while highlighting its integral role in fashion’s past, present, and future.
In the early days of fashion photography, natural light was the primary source of illumination. Pioneering photographer Eadweard Muybridge, who was known for his motion picture projections, worked with sequential images to capture movement and influenced how clothing was portrayed in motion. On the other hand, George Eastman relied on sunlight to capture images, creating soft, organic visuals that complemented the clothing of the time.
“Fashion doesn’t merely exist under light, it converses with it.”
By 1888, Eastman revolutionized the field with the invention of the Kodak camera, making photography accessible to the masses. It was a box camera with a fixed-focus lens on the front, no view finder, and two V-shaped silhouettes at the top that aided in aiming in the direction of the subject. Prior to the Kodak camera, photography was a labor-intensive process, but Eastman’s invention adhered to the slogan, “You press the button, we do the rest.” This simplification democratized photography, allowing more people to experiment with capturing fashion.
Other photographers such as Edward Steichen began to explore how lighting could be manipulated to enhance fabric and form. His use of diffused light sources softened shadows and created a more ethereal, flattering effect on fabrics. Steichen frequently used elaborate sets or natural backgrounds, which complemented the clothing while also contributing to the overall mood of the photograph. This technique created a dreamlike quality, setting a new standard for fashion photography.1
The 1920s to 1930s saw studio lighting revolutionize visual storytelling. While early photographers relied on uneven natural light, new artificial setups enabled precision and drama. Key innovators such as Irving Penn mastered soft, diffused lighting to accentuate textures and contours, while Richard Avedon and Steichen embraced high-contrast illumination to create dynamic shadows and movement.
Magazines like Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar became testing grounds for these techniques. Steichen, in particular, demonstrated how controlled lighting could transform fashion into art—blending natural and artificial sources for striking emotional impact. This era established lighting as the foundation of fashion imagery, a principle that continues to evolve with technology today. The work of Penn, Avedon, and Steichen transformed fashion photography from simple documentation into an expressive medium, laying the groundwork for the current vibrant and diverse industry, where technology continues to expand creative possibilities.
The integration of lighting into fashion can be traced back to the early 20th century. Mariano Fortuny, a multifaceted Spanish-Italian artist and designer, pioneered a lighting revolution through his groundbreaking indirect illumination system, which was a radical departure from harsh, direct lighting of his era. His patented “Fortuny Dome” and reflective silk diffusers crated ethereal, shadowless lighting that preserved delicate fabric textures and established mood through graduated tonal transitions.
These theatrical lighting principles migrated to fashion presentations as designers recognized light’s transformative power on textiles. Fortuny’s own pleated silk Delphos gowns—designed to shimmer under specific lighting conditions—demonstrated how illumination could become an active design element rather than a form of passive visibility.
This legacy persists in contemporary runway lighting, where directional spots, color temperatures, and projection mapping continue Fortuny’s quest for “emotional illumination,” proving that fashion doesn’t merely exist under light, but converses with it. His innovation was the precursor of modern lighting design in fashion shows, emphasizing the importance of light quality and its impact on visual perception.2
The Fortuny Dome created homogeneously illuminated scenes where shades of color and light alternated.
The post-war era was a golden age of technological advancements in photography. Before this time, lighting options were limited. However, with the advent of electronic flash and portable lighting systems, photographers found new ways to create striking images, regardless of the environment.
One notable figure during this period was Helmut Newton, whose use of lighting was nothing short of revolutionary. He favored harsh, direct light to create sharp contrasts, adding a dramatic flair to his photographs. This technique amplified the boldness of his subjects.
Newton’s ability to manipulate light allowed him to sculpt his images, making them as much about the shadows as the light itself. This technical mastery allowed him to move beyond studio constraints while maintaining exacting lighting precision, even on location. His approach demonstrated how controlled illumination could become a narrative tool, influencing generations of photographers to treat light as a sculptural medium rather than mere illumination.3
Then, the 1960s witnessed the introduction of color photography, and experimentation with colored gels and filters became common. This decade also introduced fashion magazines where the interplay of color and volume of light was supported as a basic concept to shape trends.
The late 20th century was a transformative period for photography, particularly in the fashion industry. Digital cameras revolutionized the way photographers worked, offering unparalleled control over exposure and lighting. This technological leap meant that photographers could experiment more freely and achieve precise results that were previously difficult to attain.
Adobe Photoshop and other digital editing tools further expanded creative possibilities. Photographers could now enhance their images in post-production, adjusting everything from lighting to color balance and even removing imperfections. This level of control allowed for a new era of polished, high-quality fashion imagery.
Mario Testino emerged as a key figure during this time. His work is renowned for its glamorous style, often characterized by his masterful use of lighting. His ability to manipulate light and shadow allowed him to create images that not only captured the physical appearance of his subjects but also conveyed their essence and emotions. Testino’s ability to create warmth and depth in his photographs helped redefine fashion photography, making his images iconic and highly influential.4
This period marked a significant shift in the industry, setting the stage for the digital age of photography we know today. The combination of advanced technology and creative vision led to some of the most memorable and impactful fashion images of the 20th century.
As the fashion industry grew, the importance of lighting in live presentations became paramount. Runway shows transformed into theatrical productions where lighting played a crucial role in setting the mood and enhancing the overall experience. Fashion designers began working closely with lighting designers to create immersive environments that complemented their collections.
Lighting in fashion shows does more than just illuminate the runway; it highlights the intricate details of the garments, emphasizing textures, colors, and embellishments. Proper illumination can make a significant difference, turning a simple presentation into a captivating spectacle. For example, ellipsoidal lights are often used to provide natural-looking illumination that brings out the best in the clothing.
The 1990s and early 2000s were a transformative period for fashion shows, with lighting design taking center stage. The advent of LED lighting marked a significant shift in fashion show production.5 LEDs offer energy efficiency, longevity, and versatility in color and intensity, making them ideal for dynamic runway environments. As a result, this era saw designers such as Alexander McQueen pushing the boundaries of runway shows. McQueen was known for his dramatic and theatrical presentations, where lighting played a crucial role in enhancing the themes and narratives of his collections. His shows were more than just fashion displays; they were immersive experiences. He used lighting to create moods and atmospheres that complemented his avant-garde designs. For example, his 1999 show No. 13 featured a model standing on a rotating platform while robotic arms sprayed paint onto her dress, all under stark, dramatic lighting that highlighted the performance’s intensity.6
Designers like McQueen pioneered the use of LED-embedded garments, merging technology with fashion to create interactive and visually striking pieces.
In the age of social media, the focus of lighting in fashion photography has undergone a another significant transformation. Platforms such as Instagram have become visual powerhouses, pushing photographers and brands to adopt new lighting techniques that make their images stand out. Natural light is still a favorite for lifestyle photography, as it creates relatable and authentic images. However, artificial lighting is often used to achieve polished, striking visuals that grab attention.7
Influencers and content creators have become central figures in this new landscape. They frequently use ring lights and portable lighting kits to produce professional-looking images, even from their homes. This accessibility to high-quality lighting equipment has further democratized photography, allowing more people to create stunning visuals without requiring a professional studio.
Contemporary fashion shows increasingly incorporate interactive lighting systems that respond to movement, sound, or audience engagement. For instance, some events have utilized mobile applications allowing attendees to influence lighting hues and intensities in real-time, fostering a participatory atmosphere.8
As technology evolves, so will lighting techniques in the fashion industry. Advancements in LED technology, augmented reality, and virtual reality are shaping how fashion is presented. Designers are experimenting with immersive environments where lighting plays a key role in storytelling.
Projection mapping has emerged as a tool for transforming garments into dynamic canvases, displaying intricate patterns and animations that evolve throughout the show. Additionally, holographic technology has enabled the inclusion of virtual models alongside live models, expanding creative possibilities and audience reach.
As environmental concerns gain prominence, the fashion industry has adopted sustainable lighting solutions. LED lighting reduces energy consumption and heat emission, contributing to eco-friendly and lower carbon footprint. Moreover, high CRI LEDs ensure accurate color representation, essential for both live audiences and digital media.
The history of lighting in the fashion industry reflects the interplay of art, technology, and cultural shifts. From the soft hues of natural light to the high-impact contrasts of studio setups, lighting has shaped how fashion is perceived. Illumination has transcended its traditional role in the fashion industry, becoming a multifaceted tool that influences design, sustainability, and audience experience. As we look to the future, and technology continues to evolve, lighting will remain at the forefront of innovation, shaping the future of fashion in both aesthetic and ethical dimensions.
Muhammad Annum Khan is a lighting control specialist, project manager and team lead at Omnilumen Technical Products at Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada.
1 The Art Story, “Edward Steichen,” May 2025. Available: https://www.theartstory.org/artist/steichen-edward/
2 Fortuny, “The Fortuny Dome: A revolution in the theatre,” Jan. 21, 2020. Available: www.fortuny.shop/blog/mariano-fortuny/the-fortuny-dome-a-revolution-in-the-theatre/
3 David, “Helmut Newton: The King of Photography,” Photogpedia, Aug. 9, 2021. Available: https://photogpedia.com/profile-series-the-complete-guide-to-helmut-newton/
4 About Photography, “Mario Testino,” May 2025. Available: https://aboutphotography.blog/photographer/mario-testino
5 FasterCapital, “Fashion show lighting: Glowing Opportunities: Exploring the Business Potential of Fashion Show Lighting,” Apr. 8, 2025.
6 Kristen Bateman, “Show to Know: When Alexander McQueen’s Robots Spray-Painted Shalom Harlow,” Allure, Oct. 3, 2016.
7 TrendCraftHub, “The Impact of Instagram on Fashion: From Trends to Influencers,” May 2025. Available: https://www.shark-ml.org/the-impact-of-instagram-on-fashion-from-trends-to-influencers/
8 Kevin Anderton, “Fashion Show Uses Augmented Reality to Captivate Audience,” Forbes, Feb. 4, 2017.
