AUSTIN, TEXAS | The Tex-Mex food is pretty strong here. But it is hard not to go whole hog on barbecue in this part of the Lone Star State, because the slow-cooked meats that local pit masters prepare is so damn good.
A favorite eatery of mine is Opie’s. Located in Spicewood on Highway 71, it boasts a 12-foot long smoke pit from which one can select from an array of pork chops, pork ribs, sausage stuffed with jalapenos and cheese, chickens and beef brisket. The meat is as tasty as it is tender, and the sauces and sides are the bomb. So is the fresh-brewed, unsweetened tea.
Another must-visit is Lamberts, which operates out of a restored brick building on 2nd Street in Austin. The smokehouse selections, whether baby back ribs, short ribs, lamb ribs or brisket, are a big giddyup, and the collection of bourbons and ryes is artfully assembled.
If you’re looking for cuisine of a different sort, try Launderette. Housed in an old laundromat in East Austin’s Holly neighborhood, its eclectic menu offers such treats as deviled eggs with black truffle and crispy pancetta; burrata with blistered tomatoes, pine nuts and pomegranate jam; Wagyu New York strip steaks; and fried chicken sammies.
As the capital of Texas since 1839, Austin is most definitely a political town. But there is bipartisan agreement that touring the State Capitol, which is made of sunset red granite, is a very worthwhile endeavor. The same can be said about the LBJ Presidential Library. Opened in 1971, two years after the 36th U.S. President left office and two years before he passed away at the age of 64, it sits on a 30-acre site on the University of Texas campus and provides a fascinating recollection of the one-time schoolteacher’s stint in the Oval Office as well as his stretches as John F. Kennedy’s vice president and the majority leader of the U.S. Senate. And no matter what side of the aisle you sit on, it is easy to get drawn into a place that includes 45 million pages of historical documents; 650,000 photos; some 5,000 hours of recordings from Johnson’s political career, including 643 hours of recorded telephone conversations; and a number of exhibits.
When it comes to accommodations here, I enjoy the comfort and close proximity to good golf that Horseshoe Bay and Barton Creek offer, to say nothing of the excellent service and superb food and beverage options they provide. But there are pluses to staying in the city, especially if you want to hear some good music and enjoy its other cultural benefits. And when I do that, I opt for the Austin Motel.
Located on South Congress Street, it evokes the fun and funky vibe that is a big part of this town’s allure, from the delightfully retro and very phallic sign out front to its kidney-shaped swimming pool, which locals tout as being the best in town. I also like its tag line (So Close Yet So Far Out), the smallness of the place (only 41 guest rooms) and an overall décor that might best be described as “kitschy cool.” The easy, on-site parking is much appreciated, and the restaurant, Joann’s Fine Food, serves up terrific Tex-Mex, from tacos and enchiladas to fajitas and chili rellenos, as well as the best patty melt I have ever devoured, with two kinds of cheese, caramelized onions and jalapenos. Oh, and the margaritas and other tequila and mescal based drinks are muy bueno.
While golf may be the biggest draw for guests at Horseshoe Bay, it is but one of many amenities one can enjoy there. The Bayside Spa and Salon offers a plethora of pampering options, and there is a fully equipped fitness center. A total of 28 tennis and pickleball courts are available as well as three pools, and the resort has a fleet of 18 MasterCraft boats that guests can use for sunset cruises, water skiing, largemouth bass fishing and other lake-centric activities. Being 6,500 acres in size and running 21 miles at its longest stretch, there is plenty of lake on which to play.
Horseshoe Bay also devotes a lot of energy to its culinary offerings, and one example of that is the annual Wine, Dine and Jazz Festival it stages each fall. The two-day affair includes such events as a five-course wine-pairing dinner, cooking demonstrations with celebrity chefs and a “wine and jazz stroll” with a focus on tastings from Texas Hill Country producers.
In addition to the Canyons and Foothills courses, Barton Creek has another pair of 18-holers that are open to the public, the Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw-designed Cliffside course and Lakeside, which was fashioned by Arnold Palmer.
Horseshoe Bay also features a fourth 18-hole layout in Summit Rock, which is a Jack Nicklaus Signature Design. Alas, it is a private club, which means it may not be too easy to access.
The resort also boasts a recently restored 18-hole putting course called Whitewater. The five-acre track is grassed with Zoysia and routed around the Whitewater 360 Sports Pub behind the hotel. All-new LED lighting makes it possible to putt the night away, and the sound system ensures that one can do so while music is playing.
Any doubt visitors might have about Austin living up to its reputation as a place for live music is surely erased when they clear security in the city’s international airport and head to their gates, for there are a number of stages and other places along those hallways where local musicians perform at various times. On the day I departed, I watched a trio of cowgirls strum guitars and sing mournful songs about finding love and hating boyfriends who broke their hearts as I nursed an ice cold Lone Star. It made it that much harder to leave town.