My perfect day in Ireland and Northern Ireland actually begins in the evening.
It starts in Belfast, a city once synonymous with the “Troubles” that tore this corner of the world apart for years before the Good Friday agreement in 1998 brought peace. The reminders are still there, but the vibe these days is thumping rather than threatening.
The Grand Central Hotel in the city center offers all of the modern comforts a traveler could want, and it’s just a short walk from Deanes Meat Locker, a steakhouse that would do the American Midwest proud.
Chef Michael Deane, who has held a prestigious Michelin star for 13 years, stands watch beside the window where steaks appear, accompanied by chips (fries to Americans), onion rings and black truffle cauliflower with cheese. Deane, with his shoulder-length hair, makes sure every plate meets his standards, and it’s easy to understand why he is a Michelin-starred chef. If it conjures up images of chef Carmen in “The Bear,” it’s understandable.
Afterward, a stop at the Crown Liquor Saloon is the perfect spot for a nightcap. Around the edges of the bar, there are small private rooms called snugs which were created more than a century ago to allow women to drink without being seen doing so in public. The times, obviously, have changed, but the snugs remain cozy spots to enjoy a drink or two of your choice.
There is a ruggedness to the place, and when a small fox wanders out of the marram grass to visit, hoping for a treat, our foursome has temporarily become a fivesome.
The next morning, our tour guide Paul O’Kane did more than show us the sights of Belfast. He shared the history, good and bad, about the city. He points to bars where bombs exploded, explains the artwork so prevalent on walls and buildings around the city and shares how the city has changed since 1998.
He also provides tales and tidbits about “Game of Thrones,” which was filmed in and around Belfast, adding some dragon-driven glitz to the area.
On the ride south to Newcastle, a lunch stop at Curran’s means a bowl of chowder, loaded with fish and mussels, a staple on seemingly every Irish menu and never a disappointment.
An afternoon round of golf at Ardglass feels like an adventure. Standing on the first tee, looking up the hill toward the green while the Irish Sea shimmers in the distance, is exciting. There is a ruggedness to the place, and when a small fox wanders out of the marram grass to visit, hoping for a treat, our foursome has temporarily become a fivesome.
Pleasantly tired after 18 holes, we relax on the 30-minute drive to Newcastle, which ends at the Slieve Donard, one of the great hotels – golf and otherwise – anywhere.
The 125-year-old hotel retains its old-world charm while providing all of the modern conveniences in a setting that Hollywood could not improve. Adjacent to Royal County Down Golf Club, the hotel caters to golfers, who can be found gathering for dinner or in the bar, talking through what happened today and what might happen tomorrow.
An old fashioned, complete with the large ice cube in the middle, is the perfect way to raise a toast to a special day.
Tomorrow, breakfast overlooking the water awaits with a tee time at Royal County Down to follow.
Another perfect day awaits.