By Paul D. Atkins
As we slowly motored forward the black water began to swirl and bubble, giving off a gaseous smell that seemed to be seeping up in from the tundra and into the water. The slew, narrow and winding, went on forever, and we followed it like a snake heading into an open field, but this wasn’t a field, it was the vast space of an Arctic marsh and we were looking for birds.
Late season waterfowl hunting can be tough in the arctic. The ducks and geese you found back in late August and early September are only but a memory now. It was great while it lasted though, huge flocks moving in like waves and settling on the various lakes and ponds that make up the area. It was some of the best bird hunting in years and you shot more boxes of shell than you can ever remember.
Now, it’s early October and as promised, cold weather has taken up residency above the Arctic Circle. The willows are a deep dark brown and the ice lined banks of the river are a tell all sign of what is getting ready to happen. Sheets of frozen water skim the surface in some areas, making a crackle sound as the boat moves up the slew. For sure the seasons don’t last to long up here, but they’re not suppose too, and with it most birds have packed up and headed south or at least the smart ones have. But until you go look you can never be sure.
For some of us the hunter’s horn blows constantly, and we do what we must do, go wherever we can and hunt whatever is available, especially when some of the bigger rivers and lakes prevent you from chasing the big boys in bad weather. You know caribou are out there making their migration, but you just can’t get to them when you need too. So, you go bird hunting instead.
One of the great things about living in the Arctic are those “best kept secrets”, those “small places” where a hunter can get away for a few hours and if it all goes well, then maybe get some shooting in. That was what we were doing on this first day of October.
Now to be honest I’ve never been much of a water fowler. Growing up in the Midwest, we just didn’t do it, or I didn’t. But when I came to Alaska many years ago, I met several people who did, and they were very good at. My good friend Lew is one of those people. Over the years Lew has taken me along on just about every “bird” outing we’ve had, teaching me the essentials of waterfowl hunting and chasing the different species we have here in Northwest Alaska. During the time, I’ve learned plenty, like how to set decoys, build an effective blind and even though I’m far from perfect, do some calling.
We’ve taken a ton of ducks over the years, and it has been a blast, but it has always been the bigger, more challenging birds that have truly inspired us to further our pursuits in the Arctic marshlands. I’m talking about the mighty Sandhill Crane and the always tough, Tundra Swan.
The toughest birds to bring down aren’t always necessarily the small fast flyers, like pintail and green wing; they’re quick for sure and you have to be on your toes, but sometimes it’s the bigger more massive birds that will try your patience. For one thing they’re smart and getting close enough to shoot or even get a chance at one of them can be as frustrating as hunting any big game animal. I know it’s that way for me and I’ve been trying for years.
Let’s first start with the Sandhill Crane. These magnificent birds are huge and there have been times while glassing the tundra for caribou that I’ve mistaken them for caribou. This is not something I tell many people, but from a long distance their big bodies, long necks and head look more like a big game animal than a bird.
These incredible creatures are Alaska’s largest feathered game bird and can be found here in the marshes and swamps located throughout all of Northwest Alaska. Light brown in color with a tremendous wingspan these birds are numerous here in the fall, stopping by before heading south along the pacific flyway. It’s during this time that we get to see them and try our luck at harvesting a few.
As far as hunting them, spot and stalk are one method, but their eyesight is keen, and you’ll usually get busted once you decide to leave and make your move. I’ve found that blinds are the most effective, where good concealment, whether in a homemade job or a commercial bought blind will seal their fate, especially if there are numerous birds in the area. Sometimes called the “Sunday Turkey” in parts of Alaska, Sand Hill Cranes are excellent eating, and many refer to them as the “filet mignon” of the sky.
However, you choose to hunt Sandhills you need to make sure you have enough gun to be successful and are using a quality steel shot. Twelve gauge with a minimum of 2 shot or BB has worked best in my experience with the latter preferred. Alaska does have a limit when it comes to cranes, so be sure to check the regulations. Up here in the Arctic differs than other places, where you are allowed two per day and six in possession, but you first must have a valid hunting license and all the proper stamps.
As far as Swans there are two species in Alaska, the Trumpeter and his smaller cousin the Tundra Swan. The Trumpeter is the largest member of the waterfowl family and cannot be hunted, but the Tundra variety, which is much smaller, (about two-thirds the size of a trumpeter) can be, even though they’re hard to distinguish at times. Besides size, mature Tundra Swans have a distinguishable yellow spot on their black bill near their eye but can be tough to determine while in flight.
Much like hunting cranes these birds are big and extremely hard to bring down. They’re smart too and seem to outwit more hunters than any other bird. They have phenomenal eyesight and can see even the slightest movement or color disfiguration when you’re trying to hide yourself, even if you’re in a blind. Again, concealment with good camouflage is the key in hopes of catching those that are working the water and moving from place to place.
Swan hunting isn’t for everyone and there are some that find it a little taboo. These magnificent birds are doubt beautiful, but for some people it isn’t something they want to do or participate in. However, they’re great game birds that produce some of the finest table fare in the outdoor world. If the Sandhill Crane is the filet mignon of the sky, then the Tundra Swan is the porterhouse!
In my opinion and even Lew’s, bringing a swan down is one of the toughest endeavors you’ll ever experience while sloshing through the delta getting to where they are. It’s been our experience that the best chance at harvest is to find a lake back from the main river or slew where they’re holding up and then build a blind near that area in hopes of catching a “bevy” or a group making their way to a new location.
Swans have thick skins and like cranes you need to make sure you have enough firepower and are proficient at shooting to bring one down. They tend to fly high also and those that don’ are still pretty tough to land on the tundra if you’re not a decent shot.
Like cranes you’ll need the proper licenses and a Federal stamp to hunt these incredible birds. You can’t hunt swans in all units in Alaska, so be sure and check the regulations. Most units where you can hunt allow three swans in a season and you must have a specific swan tag where you need to keep track of your harvest for reporting purposes.
As we eased into the narrow channel the willows began to thin, making visibility and even hearing better. I turned to Lew and said, “Do you hear that?” Like an orchestra, we could hear thousands of swans in the distance mixed with the occasional sound of ducks. It was like a late Christmas present had come to the Arctic, with seemingly endless white specs dotting the adjacent lakes.
We made our way to shore, anchored the boat and then glassed the big lake where all the action was. There were thousands of birds seated on the water, and we wanted to get to them as fast as possible. We knew however that before barreled towards the water we needed to have a plan in order to limit the number trips back to the boat. We did so by grabbing as much gear possible including decoys, shotguns, food, water and as many shotgun shells as we could carry. Finally, with waders secured we bundled up and made our way towards the willow-infested bank that lined the lake. This was going to be grand!
Buried in his lay down blind and me, hidden in a willow-induced cone, Lew and I waited for the action. It was slow going at first, but we knew with patience it would eventually happen. While we waited, I grabbed my binoculars and noticed something across the big lake. It was a bull moose who looked to be chasing two cows. I hollered at Lew and said, “Do you see that”? He shook his head yes. Even though we both still had moose tags, we had more important things to and that was to try our luck at getting a swan or two. It was moment later that it happened. A group of 4 birds left the water and started their accent in our direction. Now, I’ve never killed a swan even though I tried and missed plenty of times. Lew on the other hand had taken several, but I could sense his excitement as they made their way towards us.
The moment of truth is always fun, especially when the sound of an enormous wing flap is approaching your location. Timing is everything as we both sprung from our hiding places and fired at the same time. The sound of our shotguns echoed across the delta as two large birds hit the tundra creating a loud surprising thump. I was actually amazed at this and for a moment was glad they didn’t land on top of me. Either way I had just harvested my first swan. As I walked up to my bird, it was beautiful and surreal all at the same time. I just could believe how big this guy actually was.
Swans and Cranes are abundant here in Alaska, especially here in the northwest part of the state. Hunting them on a cold arctic day is truly underrated, and in my opinion rivals any big game hunt. Taking them down though is totally different story.
Paul Atkins is an outdoor writer and author from Kotzebue, Alaska. He has written hundreds of articles on big game hunting and fishing throughout North America and Africa, plus surviving in the Arctic
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