by Anne Marlowe Conrad
From the mangrove-lined inlets of Charlotte Harbor to the soft sandy beaches of Englewood and the famed passes of Boca Grande, nature is at its finest and keeps its promises. Possibility and adventure are in the air, and the water shimmers at least 50 shades of blue. If you are an angler who thinks a good meal tastes better after a great day on the water, Southwest Florida checks every box. This is a story of a fishing adventure that took us from the ancient waters of Charlotte Harbor where the big silver tarpon is king, to some of the most memorable tables in the region.
Heading to the dock just before dawn, I was met with the scent of fresh air, boat fuel, rich vegetation, fish and the sounds of wild Florida waking up. The fishing boats were gearing up for a full day of work and adventure.
This morning stroll through a weathered marina to a waiting vessel has been experienced by countless others and the glistening turquoise waters around Charlotte Harbor have lured fishermen for centuries. The ancient Calusa people called this lush area home and lived entirely on the seafood these waters provided. Conquistador Ponce de León tried to establish a Spanish colony here; however, an angry Calusa warrior had other ideas and sent an arrow into him that would eventually take his life in Havana.
Wealthy Easterners converged on Southwest Florida in the early twentieth century, and the majestic silver tarpon was what the sportfishing adventurers craved. The famous Gasparilla Inn built in 1912 in Boca Grande has hosted many famous names who wanted a piece of the action including J.P. Morgan, Henry Ford, and Harvey Firestone. President Theodore Roosevelt even landed a 16-foot manta ray while tarpon fishing these same waters.
Tarpon fishing in the Boca Grande, Charlotte Harbor region is considered the best in the world. The deep water in Boca Grande Pass dives to a depth of 80 feet and acts as a natural funnel between Gasparilla Sound and Charlotte Harbor. Huge schools of tarpon gather each spring and summer during their migration. They feed on crabs and baitfish that are stirred up by the currents, and the tarpon grow to between 100 and 200 lbs. They gather in the pass in numbers seen nowhere else in the world.
How Did We Get Here?
Our AGLOW (Association of Great Lakes Outdoor Writers) Fishing Camp was hosted by Pure Florida. My fishing partners this first morning were Amanda Thompson of Expedition Taste and Martha Guyes with American Sportfishing Association, one of our sponsors.
Anticipation of our fishing adventure was in the air for us as we were greeted by Captain Jay Withers, owner of Silver Lining Charters. Captain Jay is said to be one of the “fishy-est” captains in the whole area by his fellow captains. His insight and genuine love for what he does made for an exceptional day on the water.
Amanda put it well: “My favorite part of fishing with Captain Jay, was his general knowledge and coaching throughout the day. Jay found a way to weave adventure and learning seamlessly. We learned about the fishery and the history of the area coupled with tips and tricks for landing a tarpon.”
As we cruised Gasparilla Sound, Captain Jay paused to toss a large cast net out to pull in fresh baitfish to add to the shrimp already in the live well. Baitfish included mostly threadfin herrings or “threadies,” along with pass crabs. We were getting the feel of the exceptional new rods and reels loaned to us by St. Croix Rods and Seviin Reels when the fish finder lit up with a large school of tarpon directly beneath the boat. We could see them rolling in the water and the excitement was immediate.
Amanda’s reel violently came to life first. Captain Jay helped her to the chair at the bow and coached her as she worked the thrashing tarpon toward the boat for a good 10-minutes and then she was able to grab a quick “leader touch” which is the official measure of a landed tarpon.
An hour later, my turn came as the neon green float disappeared and I felt a big tug on my pole. Zzzzzzzing my reel began to sing and, and an angry tarpon leapt from the water. Captain Jay hollered “Reel, reel, reel!” And reel I did! When this chrome-bright muscular beast exploded from the sparkling water, I was reminded why anglers chase these beautiful fish all their lives.
The fish was nearly at the boat when it pulled a sneaky tarpon trick, turned toward the boat just long enough to create slack in the line. Then with one mighty leap it arched into the air. We watched a big gleaming scale fly off into the blue as it sheared my line and I came up empty-handed, my fishing dreams swimming back out to deeper waters.
Our biggest moment of the day was when Martha’s drag began screaming and her tarpon launched high into the air. We all immediately knew this was an impressive fish. Martha began reeling for all she was worth and every time she would get the silver king close, it would go streaking back out taking long lengths of line with it. This was a full-on fish rodeo, and Martha gave it everything she had. Amanda and I cheered her on and Captain Jay coached her as she brought the massive, armored tarpon to the boat for a quick photo. Captain Jay estimated this fish to weigh 140-150 lbs. This will be a memory Martha will carry for years.
The adventures on the water were inspiring, and Captain Jay took excellent care of us. We were grateful for the chance to hook into these great creatures.
After each busy day on the water, Pure Florida and the communities surrounding Punta Gorda and Englewood Beach made sure each evening ended as well as it began.
I will be honest: I am not an experienced fish diner. I wasn’t raised on it, but I am learning. Martha Guyes gave me perfect suggestions in each restaurant of dishes and was spot on each time. We went to fun waterside tiki bars and elevated dining destinations.
My two most memorable meals were from restaurants participating in the Pure Florida Flavor Coast initiative that showcases top dining destinations in the Punta Gorda/Englewood Beach region. Pure Florida Flavor Coast
The Macadamia Nut Encrusted Mahi at Lock ‘N Key in Manasota, was unique and delightful. The mahi was cooked to perfection and cleverly crafted. Topped with a fresh tropical strawberry and peach salsa, that melded with the mango rum glaze, that I can only describe as heavenly! Everyone at the table enjoyed their meals but mentioned that they wished they had ordered mine.
Farlow’s on the Water was a full dining experience from start to finish. Owner Keith Farlow took personal care to ensure our visit under the lovely, covered porch was one we wouldn’t soon forget. We dined family style working through delicious sides including corn pudding and fried green tomatoes along with the triple tail, snapper and redfish his friendly staff brought us. The showstopper was when a magnificent hogfish was carved at and presented at the table. Everything was beautifully executed. Highly recommend!
Southwest Florida gives you both water and food adventures. From the ancient fishing grounds of the Calusa to the screaming reels of Boca Grande, Southwest Florida, sets just as impressive of a table as it sets a fishing hook. Your first visit will be just that…the first, of many.