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Gulf Shrimp and Grits from Lucy Buffett’s LuLu’s
LULU’S/mike buck photography
Shrimply the Best
Dive into the nitty gritty of one of the South’s favorite dishes—shrimp and grits—and where to find some of the best interpretations in the United States.
By Jason Frye
The quintessentially Southern dish shrimp and grits has risen from humble roots to a place at the top of the Southern culinary pantheon, but few diners know its origins or the best places to dig into a bowl of this hearty dish. So, where did it come from? And, where do you go when you’ve got a craving?
The History
Pinpointing the true origin of shrimp and grits is nearly impossible, but all signs point to the same general vicinity: the Southern coast, where shrimpers and fishermen would have a hearty breakfast of grits topped with a few shrimp. For generations, the dish remained a homey, working-man’s food, but in the early 1980s, Chef Bill Neal started serving a “cheffed up” version in his Chapel Hill, North Carolina, restaurant, Crooks Corner. In 1985, Neal’s upscale spin—with bacon, mushrooms, scallions and a rich sauce on a bed of cheesy grits and a school of shrimp—caught the eye of “The New York Times,” and the newspaper published his recipe, introducing the wider world to this Southern secret. Almost overnight, a craze was born.
Dig In
You can find shrimp and grits on menus across the United States, but for the best around, head for the Southern and Gulf coasts. Of course, you’ll find excellent renditions in food-filled cities like New Orleans, where the dish gets a modern Creole treatment at Gris-Gris and veers into spicy territory (thanks to roasted jalapeno cheese grits) at Luke, but looking beyond the Big Easy reveals some surprising places to sample this Southern staple.
Jekyll Island, Georgia
Jekyll Island, once a playground for Gilded Age elites, makes a great getaway in any season, thanks to pristine shores; the eerie and beautiful Driftwood Beach; and ample opportunities for relaxing, birding and fishing. In October, however, the Shrimp & Grits Festival gives you a delicious reason to visit. On Oct. 24 and 25, 2025, the national historic landmark district will be packed with shrimp, grits, chefs and fairgoers. Enjoy the music, the arts and crafts vendors, and so much shrimp and grits you couldn’t possibly try them all in a weekend.
City Grocery’s shrimp and grits includes mushrooms and bacon.
BETHANY MOFFETT
Oxford, Mississippi
Head inland to Oxford, Mississippi, home of Ole Miss and Rowan Oak, William Faulkner’s longtime residence. Do a little shopping on The Square, the city’s historic center, where Square Books and local galleries provide artsy distractions and boutiques sate your itch to shop. Make dinner plans at City Grocery, where Managing Chef and Owner John Currence, a James Beard Best Chef, South, winner, serves a brilliant shrimp and grits. The secret? According to Chef de Cuisine Jon Davis, it’s “Tabasco. We incorporate Tabasco in a grand slam recipe that keeps guests coming back for more.”
Shrimp and grits with a tomato creme sauce served at Soby’s
SOBY’S
Greenville, South Carolina
While you’re inland, head to the hills of South Carolina, where Greenville’s exceptional food scene wows you as much as the lovely downtown. The Reedy River flows through the urban center, and the stunning Liberty Bridge gives you an unusual view of the in-town cascades. Pay a visit to the Greenville County Museum of Art and the many galleries and boutiques downtown before dropping by Soby’s, where Executive Chef Kyle Swartzendruber’s shrimp and grits is a dinnertime darling. Chef Swartzendruber says, “Our grits are velvety and rich, thanks to Grana Padano and a tomato creme sauce; tarragon and andouille sausage give it a Cajun feel.”
Mayport Shrimp with collard greens and cheese grits at Palms Fish Camp
VISIT JACKSONVILLE
Jacksonville, Florida
Between the golf, the beaches, a visit to the Jacksonville Zoo or an afternoon in the Jacksonville Arboretum and Gardens, Jacksonville, Florida, surprises. What may surprise you even more is that Jacksonville is known as Florida’s “Shrimp Capital,” a fact celebrated on the Mayport Shrimp Trail, a self-guided food tour of restaurants that offer local food dishes. Tuck into all the peel-and-eat shrimp you want, but save room for shrimp and grits. Palms Fish Camp serves its version from a relaxed waterside spot, where you can savor the spicy gravy that tops the cheesy grits. Congaree and Penn’s upscale take features meaty bites of Tasso ham, huge Florida shrimp and a piquant gravy to rave about.
Wilmington, North Carolina
Head to Wilmington, where you can work up an appetite playing in the waves at Wrightsville Beach, kayaking backwaters near Fort Fisher State Recreation Area and exploring the historic downtown. Go for upscale shrimp and grits at Catch, where Chef Keith Rhodes (a “Top Chef” contestant and multiple James Beard Award nominee) adds Benton’s bacon, blistered tomatoes, mushrooms, baby spinach and pan-seared shrimp. Downtown, Brunch Thyme serves a rootsier version with fried shrimp, turkey bacon gravy, green onion and tomato.
Spicy Shrimp and Sausage served over creamy grits at Magnolias
MAGNOLIAS
Charleston, South Carolina
Charleston’s full of noteworthy architecture, photo-worthy churches and historic sites, and plenty of ghosts (ghosts tours are a must here), but schedule a visit to the International African American Museum, where you can see the city and its Black community in a new light, from a misinformed past to a vibrant present. When the dinner bell rings, head to Magnolias for a simple (and spicy) classic rendition of shrimp and grits or to 82 Queen, an elegant spot where she crab soup and shrimp and grits have delighted diners for decades.
If you are planning a trip to Charleston, check out our Charleston City Guide!
Gulf Shrimp and andouille sausage served over gouda grits at LuLu’s
Gulf Shores, Alabama
There’s so much for the family to do in Gulf Shores, Alabama, you might forget to eat. If you can tear yourself away from frolicking on the beach, kayaking marsh creeks, offshore or inshore fishing, or just relaxing, make way to LuLu’s. LuLu’s, owned by Lucy Buffett (sister to the late singer-songwriter-scalawag Jimmy), serves a shrimp and grits that sits between the classic version and a New Orleans interpretation. The chefs here add Creole seasoning and smoky Tasso ham to smoked gouda grits, then toss in the shrimp last minute for a quick simmer before serving. It’s a dish to sing about. (Note: LuLu’s also has two locations outside of Gulf Shores—one in Destin, Florida, and one in North Myrtle Beach, South Carolina.)
Savor every bite of your next adventure—work with a knowledgeable AAA Travel Agent to plan the ultimate foodie road trip, tasting the best shrimp and grits from coast to coast. Plus, take advantage of exclusive member benefits. Visit AAA.com/TravelExpert today
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