BOURBON HAS taken on many different cultural identities throughout the United States. In chef and writer Edward Lee’s latest book, Bourbon Land: A Spirited Love Letter to My Old Kentucky Whiskey, he focuses on the quintessential liquor of his home state from its earliest iterations to today—or as he puts it, “from the temperance movement, when it was blamed for every evil, to now, when it’s the trendiest, coolest thing on the planet.”
Lee characterizes the amber spirit as “time trapped in a bottle.” It’s an apt description for a drink that distinctly captures a specific place and tradition. It was once forsaken in favor of clear alcohols such as gin and vodka, but the resurgence in classic cocktails like the old-fashioned, coupled with factors like a post-9/11 desire to buy American-made products, led to a mid-2000s bourbon boom. His new book contextualizes its ever-growing popularity and extensive production process.
“I don’t think people understand how much time goes into bourbon. They see an age statement (like four, five, or six years) and think that’s the total amount of time it took. But it’s actually far more than that. Think about how long it takes for the corn to grow—plus the 70 or so years required for the tree to mature,” he says, referencing the oak needed for the barrels.
The liquor’s flavor is often as misunderstood as its pro-duction. “It has been misrepresented as something sweet, but to me, the really interesting notes of bourbon start with the savory,” Lee says. He appreciates its earthy hints of leather or hay and the smoky aroma that comes from aging it in charred casks.
Not only will this tome convince you to take a sip, but it will also make you want to cook with bourbon. Lee even recommends using the spirit in tandem with delicate ingredients like fish or in a refreshing watermelon salad (recipe at right) despite its robust flavor.
Bourbon Land has interviews with the folks who are intimately involved in creating the liquor and provides the backgrounds on major distillers in the region. Lee also collected cocktail recipes from notable mixologists—exemplifying how far bourbon has come since the early days of his career when it was relegated to being a cook’s postshift drink. “The bartender wasn’t going to give you the high-end vodka that was selling, so he poured you a shot of Wild Turkey because it sat in the back of the bar. No one drank it,” he says. Thankfully, times have changed.
Watermelon, Mint, Feta, and Fried-Peanut Salad
ACTIVE 10 MIN. - TOTAL 20 MIN. - SERVES 8
Place 8 cups seeded and cubed watermelon in a large bowl. Add 1 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves (chopped), 2∕3 cup crumbled feta cheese, 2 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds, 1 Tbsp. olive oil, and 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice. Toss gently until just combined; set aside. Cook 1 cup unsalted dry-roasted peanuts in a skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until just lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Add 1 Tbsp. bourbon, 2 tsp. soy sauce, and 1 1∕2 tsp. granulated sugar; cook, shaking skillet vigorously, until skillet is almost dry, 15 to 30 seconds. Transfer peanuts to a plate; let cool 10 minutes. Assemble salad on a platter; top with fried peanuts, and sprinkle with Bourbon Salt (recipe follows) to taste.
Bourbon Salt
ACTIVE 5 MIN. - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 40 MIN. - MAKES 1 CUP
Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment. Bring 2 1∕2 cups bourbon to a simmer in a pan over medium. Cook, undisturbed, until reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Add 1 cup coarse sea salt; bring to a simmer. Cook, undisturbed, until most of bourbon has evaporated, about 8 minutes. Spread salt on baking sheet in an even layer. Bake at 200°F until dry, about 1 hour. Let cool 15 minutes. Break up large pieces; store in an airtight container at room temperature up to 1 month.
Telling It Straight
For more bourbon-inspired recipes and insights into the craft of distilling, pick up a copy of Lee’s new book.
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CHRISTI’S CAFE
Before a day full of distillery tours, grab a hearty breakfast of eggs with bacon or country-fried steak at this old-school diner. christiscafe.com
LAHA’S RED CASTLE
This storied establish- ment has been flipping patties since 1934. While these hamburgers are great on their own, try adding Laha’s signature chili to your order for an outstanding meal. facebook.com/lahasredcastle
MY OLD KENTUCKY DINNER TRAIN
Although this ride is geared for tourists, you don’t get to eat high-end fare on a train every day. So just sit back, enjoy the food, and take in the scenery of the country- side. kydinnertrain.com
RECIPES: EDWARD LEE; PORTRAIT: COURTESY EDWARD LEE/JOLEA BROWN
VICTOR PROTASIO; FOOD STYLING: EMILY NABORS HALL; PROP STYLING: LYDIA PURSELL