BEST CUBAN SANDWICH
THE LEGEND BEGAN IN 1903 with a humble saloon in Tampa where trolley conductors and cigar-factory workers ducked in for a slurp of strong coffee. Then in 1905, this place became Columbia Restaurant, and today it’s the largest eating establishment in Florida, with seating for 1,700 customers. These days, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re walking into a tourist trap. For a venue to be featured endlessly in vacation guides and “best of” lists (including this one), there has to be some kind of catch, right? Locals wouldn’t bother with something so overhyped. Except, on any given day, a huge number of those 1,700 seats are filled with Tampans.
All 52,000 square feet of the space smells of warm bread, garlic, and spices. But it doesn’t feel too big or commercialized—it’s more like a magical foodie castle, covered in Spanish tiles, where everyone is invited to the feast. First-timers and old-timers, be they Tampa bronzed or snowbird pale, most commonly pick The Original Cuban Sandwich as their order.
Andrew T. Huse, Tampa Bay historian and lead author of The Cuban Sandwich: A History in Layers, is quick to point out that it was never referred to as a Cuban sandwich by Cubans. “It was called a mixto (mixed sandwich),” he says, “and the ingredients changed over time.”
Columbia’s current version is based on the sandwich popularized over a century ago and features salami, ham, and roast pork. So what makes it so special? Huse says the three biggest factors are sugar, fat, and bread.
“They use a form of glazed ham that has a subtle sweetness,” he notes. This mimics the effect of Tampa’s early mixto crafters, who pressed the meat with heavy tailor’s irons o sear the sugar and produce a glaze.
Columbia’s sandwich is made using pork shoulder instead of pork loin. Having more marbling helps make the meat juicy and flavorful.
Huse explains that, beyond the fillings, the biggest asset of a Columbia Cuban might be the bread. It comes from La Segunda Central Bakery, another century-old Tampa institution, which has repeatedly defied mass production. “A combination of fan cool- ing and hearth heating results in a tissue-thin crust on the outside with soft bread on the inside. It’s crisp and crumbly, creating a ‘bread confetti’ that’s much sought-after,” he says.
According to Huse, the final thing Columbia gets right is their diagonal cut. “For the same reason we serve pizza in wedges—it’s more fun to eat corners!” —Andrew Schrader
BEST SNORKELING SPOT JOHN PENNEKAMP CORAL REEF STATE PARKIF YOU’RE LOOKING for Jesus, head to Key Largo and bring your snorkel. While most snorkeling spots are prized for fish sightings, this state park in The Keys has an additional draw: a statue of Jesus Christ (though the sea life is fantastic too). About 25 feet below the surface at the Key Largo Dry Rocks reef is Christ of the Abyss, a 9-foot sculpture designed with open arms, as if blessing the water and all of its creatures. Best viewed by scuba divers but visible to snorkelers, it’s accessible only by boat; many tour companies offer daily rides. The bronze statue was created by Italian artist Guido Galletti and installed in 1965 (two others are in Italy and Grenada). Since then, it has attracted visitors from around the world and left them with a deep appreciation for the state’s delicate and diverse underwater ecosystems. —Lisa Cericola
BEST BBQ JOINT
Big John’s is a new- comer on this list, but it’s familiar to Tampa. The late Rev. John A. Stephens came to the area from Alabama and opened Big John’s in 1968. Today, the restaurant is run by his grandchildren and still serves up splendid chicken, sausage, and ribs cooked hot and fast on an open pit with a giant brick chimney.
—Robert Moss
2. Jenkins Quality Barbecue Jacksonville 3.Tropical Smokehouse West Palm Beach 4. Shorty’s BBQ Miami 5. Pig Beach BBQ West Palm Beach 6.Crydermans Barbecue Cocoa and Melbourne 7. Sonny’s BBQ Multiple Locations 8. 4 Rivers Smoke- house Multiple Locations 9. Shiver’s Bar-B-Q Homestead 10. Hometown Barbecue Miami
AMY PEZZICARA
