1 MOREL MUSHROOMS
Hollow with honeycomb-like pitted caps, these mushrooms are different from the ones you’re likely used to eating. When buying morels, seek out firm, plump specimens. Store them, unwashed, in a paper bag in the refrigerator for no more than a couple of days. Clean them right before using: Swish quickly in water, or wipe gently with a damp paper towel.
2 FIDDLEHEAD FERNS
Think of these as curled-up baby fern leaves with a flavor similar to asparagus. Look for bright green, tightly wound coils. If you see some papery brown skin, simply rub to remove. Raw fiddleheads aren’t safe to eat, so be sure to cook them thoroughly. Store rinsed and dried fiddleheads in your refrigerator’s crisper drawer for up to a week.
3 RAMPS
Similar in appearance to scallions but with broad, flat leaves, ramps taste great raw, cooked, or pickled. They have a strong garlicky flavor, which is most pronounced in the stems and bulbs. Wrap unwashed ramps in a damp paper towel, and store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator up to three days. Wash well and pat dry before using.
4 FAVA BEANS
Fresh favas are nestled in big, fat pods, so you’ll need to shell them. Each bean is also covered in a tough outer layer; simply blanch them for a few seconds, cool in ice water, and peel away the skins. You’ll be left with bright green gems that have a sweet, buttery, nutty taste. Store unshelled beans in the fridge for about a week.
5 RADISHES
The heirloom French breakfast radish is sweeter and more delicate in flavor than “hotter” varieties. Select bunches with fresh-looking leaves. Remove the tops, and store them (unwashed) in a damp paper towel in a plastic bag for up to a week. Sauté the greens with pasta or grains, roast them for an easy side, or use them raw in salads.
6 GARLIC SCAPES
These curly stems grow up from bulbs that are buried in the soil. They taste similar to chives with a faint, sweet whiff of garlic. If stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator, they will stay good for several weeks. Raw garlic scapes add a punch to dips or pestos; when they’re cooked, their flavor mellows a little.
Pasta with Morel-and-Pea Cream Sauce
Morel mushrooms seem almost otherworldly; they have porous, spongy caps that generously soak up any surrounding flavors. Here, they absorb the creamy sauce with shallot-infused butter, fortified wine, and the soft anise notes of tarragon. If you can’t find morels at the farmers’ market, feel free to substitute a mix of wild or cremini mushrooms from the grocery store; regular chives can stand in for garlic chives. Casarecce noodles are about an inch long; you can swap them out for any short, tubular pasta, such as penne or cavatappi.
ACTIVE 30 MIN. - TOTAL 30 MIN.
SERVES 4
12 oz. uncooked casarecce pasta
2 Tbsp. olive oil
8 oz. fresh morel mushrooms, halved lengthwise (about 5 cups)
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1/4 cup minced shallot (from 1 large shallot)
1 cup shelled green peas (or thawed frozen peas)
1/4 cup Madeira wine (or Marsala wine or sherry)
3/4 cup heavy whipping cream
1 oz. pecorino Romano cheese, grated (about 1/4 cup)
Kosher salt, to taste, plus more for salting water
Black pepper, to taste
2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh garlic chives
2 Tbsp. fresh tarragon leaves
1. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over high. Add pasta, and cook according to package directions for al dente. Drain, reserving 3/4 cup cooking water.
2. While pasta cooks, heat a large skillet over medium-high. Add olive oil to skillet, swirling to coat. Add mushrooms; cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms start to brown and soften, about 4 minutes. Add butter, shallot, and peas. Cook, stirring often, until shallot softens and mushrooms are brown in spots, about 3 minutes. Stir in wine; cook, stirring occasionally, until wine evaporates, about 1 minute. Stir in cream, cooked pasta, and 1/3 cup of the reserved cooking water. Cook, stirring often, until sauce clings to pasta, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat, and gradually stir in cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper; add remaining cooking water, 2 tablespoons at a time, as needed to keep sauce creamy. Sprinkle with garlic chives and tarragon. Serve immediately.
Fiddlehead-and-Bacon Tart
If you’re a cook who loves to taste raw ingredients, resist the urge when it comes to fiddlehead ferns—you’ll likely get a stomachache. Wait until they’re boiled and then baked in this cheesy tart to enjoy their fresh, asparagus-like flavor. Not all varieties are edible, so source ostrich fern fiddleheads from a reputable provider at your local farmers’ market or online to ensure you get the right kind.
ACTIVE 45 MIN. - TOTAL 2 HOURS, 5 MIN., PLUS 1 HOUR, 15 MIN. CHILLING
SERVES 6
4 thick-cut applewood-smoked bacon slices, chopped
1/4 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces, plus melted butter for drippings, if needed
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1 tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more for salting water
3-4 Tbsp. ice water, plus more for ferns
1 1/2 cups trimmed fresh edible fiddlehead ferns
2 large eggs
1 large egg yolk
1 cup half-and-half
1 1/2 oz. Parmesan cheese, grated (about 1/3 cup)
1/4 tsp. ground white pepper
1. Heat a small skillet over medium. Add bacon; cook, stirring occasionally, until fat has rendered and bacon is crisp, 8 to 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove bacon from skillet to a paper towel-lined plate. Scrape bacon drippings into a heatproof glass measuring cup to equal 1/4 cup. (Stir melted butter into drippings as needed to equal 1/4 cup.) Freeze drippings, uncovered, until firm, about 45 minutes.
2. Place flour and 1/2 teaspoon of the salt in a food processor; pulse to combine, 2 to 3 pulses. Add cold butter; pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal, about 8 pulses. Remove bacon drippings from freezer, and remove from measuring cup. Cut drippings into small pieces, and add to flour mixture. Pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal, about 5 pulses. Drizzle 3 tablespoons of the ice water over top of flour mixture; pulse just until dough starts to come together and is crumbly, 10 to 12 pulses. Add additional 1 tablespoon ice water, 1 teaspoon at a time, if needed. Turn dough mixture out onto a large piece of plastic wrap; gently bring dough together using edges of plastic wrap, and pat into a 1-inch-thick disk. Wrap in plastic wrap, and chill for 30 minutes.
3. Preheat oven to 350°F. Unwrap dough, and roll into a 12-inch circle on a floured work surface. Gently fit dough into a 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom, pressing dough into bottom and up sides of pan. Trim and discard excess dough. Line dough with parchment paper, and top with pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 20 minutes. Carefully remove parchment paper and pie weights. Bake at 350°F until just light golden, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove pan from oven; cool tart shell to room temperature, about 15 minutes. Do not turn oven off.
4. Meanwhile, bring a small saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil over high. While water comes to a boil, fill a medium bowl with ice water; set aside. Add ferns to boiling water; boil until tender-crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain and plunge ferns into ice water; let stand 5 minutes. Drain ferns, and thoroughly pat dry.
5. Whisk together eggs and egg yolk in a medium bowl until well combined. Add half-and- half, Parmesan, pepper, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt; whisk until well blended. Place tart pan on an aluminum foil-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle bacon inside baked tart shell. Pour egg mixture over bacon, and top with ferns. Bake at 350°F until eggs are set, 30 to 35 minutes. Remove from oven. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Ramp-and-Rye Focaccia
Layered with ramps inside and out, this easy no-knead dough comes together in the food processor. Rye flour adds depth to the fluffy focaccia. You can find it online or with the specialty flours in the baking aisle of your local grocery store. Feel free to substitute the same amount of all-purpose flour for the rye.
ACTIVE 25 MIN. - TOTAL ABOUT 45 MIN., PLUS 3 HOURS STANDING
SERVES 12
1 1/3 cups warm water (about 110°F)
1 1/4 tsp. active dry yeast (from 1 [1/4-oz.] envelope)
1 tsp. granulated sugar
5 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
3 cups all-purpose flour
2/3 cup medium rye flour
2 tsp. kosher salt
1/3 cup chopped fresh ramp leaves
Flaky sea salt (optional)
6-8 whole ramps, bulbs removed
3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
1. Stir together water, yeast, and sugar in the bowl of a food processor. Let stand until yeast just starts to bubble and foam, 5 to 10 minutes. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of the oil over yeast mixture. Whisk together all-purpose flour, rye flour, and kosher salt in a medium bowl. Add flour mixture to yeast mixture in food processor. Pulse until dough comes together in a single mass, about 5 pulses. Scrape down sides of food processor bowl. Add chopped ramp leaves; process until dough is smooth and sticky, allowing dough to spin around bowl, about 30 seconds.
2. Lightly coat a 13- x 9-inch metal baking pan with cooking spray. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of the oil over pan, tilting to completely coat bottom of pan. Scrape dough into prepared pan, and turn to coat completely in oil; pat dough out to fill pan. Loosely cover with plastic wrap coated with cooking spray, and let stand in a warm place until at least doubled in size, 3 to 4 hours.
3. Preheat oven to 450°F. Uncover dough, and drizzle with remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Dimple dough all over with your fingertips, pressing all the way down to bottom of pan. Sprinkle dough with flaky sea salt, if desired. Top with ramps, gently pressing into dough, being careful not to collapse air pockets. Coat ramps with cooking spray. Bake until browned on top and very crisp on bottom, 20 to 25 minutes. Brush focaccia with melted butter, and serve.
Radishes with Miso-Sesame Butter
Complement fresh, peppery radishes with good butter and crunchy sea salt for a low-effort yet elegant appetizer that’s been perfected by the French. Here, soy-based miso and sesame oil add extra layers of savory, toasty richness.
ACTIVE 10 MIN. - TOTAL 10 MIN.
MAKES 2/3 CUP BUTTER
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
2 Tbsp. white miso
1 tsp. toasted sesame oil
Flaky sea salt
2 bunches mixed radishes, for serving
Baguette slices, for serving
Place butter and miso in a small bowl. Beat with an electric mixer on medium speed until well blended, about 1 minute. Add oil; beat until creamy and blended, about 20 seconds. Transfer butter mixture to a small serving bowl, and sprinkle with salt. Serve butter with radishes and baguette slices.
Fava-and-Whipped Feta Bruschetta
Fava beans require a little extra work, but they are absolutely worth it. Thankfully the favas can be shelled, blanched, and peeled in advance. The prepped beans can be refrigerated for up to three days, making this recipe a breeze to throw together for guests. Creamy ricotta and briny feta make the ideal blank canvas for these sautéed favas, which are accented with lemon, mint, and parsley.
ACTIVE 1 HOUR - TOTAL 1 HOUR, 10 MIN.
MAKES 16
Ice water
2 lb. unshelled fresh fava beans
16 (1/2-inch-thick) diagonal baguette slices
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1/4 cup whole-milk ricotta cheese
4 oz. sheep’s milk feta cheese, crumbled (about 1 cup)
2 Tbsp. finely chopped shallot (from 1 large shallot)
1/2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more for salting water
1/2 tsp. black pepper
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh mint
2 tsp. grated lemon zest (from 1 lemon)
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Bring a medium saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil over high. While water comes to a boil, fill a medium bowl with ice water; set aside. Shell fava beans, discarding pods. Add shelled fava beans to boiling water; boil 30 seconds. Drain beans, and plunge beans into ice water; let stand 5 minutes. Drain beans. Peel off and discard outer skins; set peeled beans aside.
2. Arrange baguette slices on an aluminum foil-lined baking sheet; brush both sides of slices with 3 tablespoons of the oil. Bake in preheated oven until crisp and light golden, 10 to 12 minutes. Let toasted baguette slices cool 5 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, place ricotta cheese and crumbled feta in a mini food processor; process until well combined, about 30 seconds, stopping to scrape down sides as needed. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil; process until completely smooth and creamy, about 1 minute.
4. Heat remaining 3 tablespoons oil in a medium skillet over medium. Add shallot, and cook, stirring often, until slightly softened, about 1 minute. Add reserved peeled fava beans, salt, and pepper; cook, stirring often, until beans are tender-crisp, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat, and stir in parsley, mint, and lemon zest.
5. Spread about 2 1/2 teaspoons feta mixture onto each toasted baguette slice; top each with about 2 tablespoons fava bean mixture. Transfer to a serving platter.
Creamy Garlic Scape Soup
Loaded with handfuls of baby spinach and chunks of tender Yukon Gold potatoes, this verdant soup is blended until it’s velvety smooth. A generous dollop of sour cream adds a tangy finish. If you have trouble finding garlic scapes, substitute an equal amount of chives and one finely minced garlic clove.
ACTIVE 35 MIN. - TOTAL 50 MIN.
1/4 cup unsalted butter, divided
2 cups cubed baguette
1 1/4 tsp. kosher salt, divided
1 cup chopped garlic scapes, plus 2 Tbsp. thinly sliced garlic scapes, divided
1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped (about 3 cups)
3 cups unsalted chicken stock
2 fresh bay leaves
2 cups loosely packed fresh baby spinach
1/2 cup sour cream
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large saucepan over medium. Remove from heat. Arrange bread cubes on an aluminum foil-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with melted butter, and sprinkle with 1/4 teaspoon of the salt; toss well to coat. Reserve saucepan; do not wipe clean. Bake bread cubes until toasted, about 12 minutes, stirring once after 8 minutes. Remove croutons from oven, and set aside.
2. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in reserved saucepan over medium. Add chopped garlic scapes; cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened, about 3 minutes. Add potatoes, stock, bay leaves, and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil over high. Partially cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer until potatoes are tender, 12 to 14 minutes. Uncover and stir in spinach. Remove from heat.
3. Pour potato mixture into a blender. Secure lid on blender, and remove center piece to allow steam to escape. Place a clean towel over opening. Process until smooth, about 45 seconds. Add sour cream, and process until well combined, about 20 seconds. Ladle soup into bowls; top evenly with croutons and sliced garlic scapes.
