These midnight beauties have a deceptively delicate texture—that’s the magic of cocoa powder. Black cocoa imparts chocolaty flavor without weighing down the crumb with the fatty cocoa butter found in melted chocolate. Stencil playful patterns on top with a contrasting cocoa such as rouge or natural (stencil info, page 94).
by JAN MILLER photos CARSON DOWNING food styling CHARLIE WORTHINGTON
In this season of hearts and flowers, you may have sipped red wine and nibbled chocolate, but if you have yet to experience the duo in a savory dish, try this cocoa- and smoked paprika-rubbed chuck roast as a delicious introduction. While the meat braises, cocoa’s slightly bitter notes meld with Burgundy (a low-tannin red wine) to yield a layered rich, satiny gravy that doesn’t taste like dessert.
Mexican mole sauces, though varied and vast, begin with one or more dried chiles, chocolate, and a combo of nuts, seeds, and spices. Similarly, our beefy bean chili starts with dried ancho chiles that are blended and cooked in a fire-roasted tomato broth with cumin, oregano, and cocoa. The cocoa adds a warm depth that’s mildly sweet, complex, and nuanced without needing to simmer all day.
The flavor nuances of each type of cocoa may be subtle, but they are easiest to discern when sipping. We paired the four varieties with ingredients that bring out their best. Black cocoa loves marshmallows—in tandem, they’re like an Oreo in a mug. Natural cocoa partners with honey and coconut milk (think chocolate macaroon). Dutch-process cocoa and almond are reminiscent of milk chocolate-almond candy bars. And a splash of raspberry liqueur enhances rouge cocoa.
Cocoa powder comes from cacao beans that have been fermented, roasted, and crushed into a paste, which is pressed to remove most of the cocoa butter. The solids are then finely ground to make natural unsweetened cocoa. Additional processing steps yield black, rouge, and Dutch-process cocoa powders, each with its own distinct flavor. See page 95 for details.
When that craving for brownies hits, trust us, stirring together this quick treat is almost as easy as using a mix. Equal portions of flour and cocoa— especially a premium Dutch or rouge—plus a combo of oil and melted butter ensure this pantry recipe bakes into gooey, deep-chocolate goodness.
It’s a love story entirely based on chemistry. When Dutch-process cocoa and baking powder get together, feathery-light chocolate biscuits are the outcome. Top them with an extra dose of cocoa whipped into cream and macerated fresh berries.
Our slice-and-bake spin on the iconic Oreo cookie mimics the original’s taste, color, and texture, but we’ve upgraded the fillings. Choose a toasted black sesame seed or one flavored with freeze-dried raspberries. And, oh yeah, they’re still totally dunkable.