In the spirit of the evergreen season, we’re channeling those piney tree notes onto our plates with aromatic rosemary.
by ANNA KOVEL photos CARSON DOWNING food styling CHARLIE WORTHINGTON
Potato Rosemary Upside-Down Tartlets
These impressive appetizers are a marriage between Italian pizza con patate and the upsidedown puff pastry trend that swept social media this summer. Rosemary and thinly sliced potatoes bake under a blanket of flaky pastry.
PROP STYLING: STEPHANIE HUNTER
Rosemary-Mezcal Salty Dog
This wintry take on the summery salty dog features woodsy rosemary and smoky mezcal in place of the usual gin. Garnish each glass with a rosemary-salt rim and a sprig for a stirring stick.
In this month of short days and long nights, when we aim to brighten the darkest hours with glowing lights and boughs of evergreens, we suggest adding fragrant rosemary to the season’s more traditional mix. The aromatic herb has a storied history of boosting spirits and, of course, flavor. In the Middle Ages, winter revelers placed rosemary branches on the floor, believing the scent released by walking on them would bring good luck and happiness in the coming year. Ancient Greeks burned rosemary branches in ceremonial rituals, and in medieval times, rosemary decorated banquet tables—a tradition that continues today, as boughs often adorn tables at weddings and on saint days. Rosemary’s antiinflammatory properties have long been touted too; in the 17th century, prominent English physician Nicholas Culpeper called the herb “an admirable cure-all remedy.” Medicinal claims aside, there’s no denying the culinary benefits of rosemary. Its savory, slightly astringent quality balances the richness of lamb roasts and stews, and the herb lends an appealing woodsiness to artisanal breads. Less expected, perhaps, is how well rosemary plays with sweet things, especially caramel, and citrus, which brings out its floral notes. Whatever way you use it—and you’ll find some new ideas on these pages—the flavor and fragrance are sure to bring a familiar comfort. Indeed, rosemary boasts one more quality that may not surprise anyone who has smelled it wafting through the kitchen: Its aroma is believed to stimulate the appetite.
Rosemary Pecan Brittle
Flecks of bright green leaves show through this blond nut brittle. It’s a little bit savory and a little bit sweet and will do nicely as part of a holiday nibbles spread. Pair with olives, roasted chickpeas, thinly sliced serrano ham or prosciutto, and a nutty cheese such as aged Gouda, Gruyère, or Manchego.
Rosemary Garlic Knots
Back in the ‘40s, New York pizza shops started baking leftover dough scraps into little knots to avoid waste. Brushed with a peppery blend of olive oil, garlic, rosemary, and salt before baking, these little buns come out golden brown and crunchy on the outside, chewy on the inside.
Herbed Lamb Stew
Lamb (or beef), root vegetables, and red wine make one hearty winter stew; rosemary and olives bring Provençal accents. The flavors will mingle and mellow over time, so consider making this at your leisure and serving it a day or two later. Spoon the stew over couscous or cooked grains to absorb the rich broth.
Rosemary Polenta Cake with Meyer Lemon
Golden cornmeal and bright Meyer lemons create a sunny bake for winter days. The slight crunch and heft of polenta add depth to this rustic tea cake that’s dressed up with rosemary sprigs and fine curls of lemon peel candied in homemade syrup
RECIPES BEGIN ON PAGE 157